What the Bolivian Navy is doing at the top of the world, and why divers should care.
Coroico, an old bridge, and the beginnings of something at Pongo Bella Vista.
This is a story about getting there. The park itself, we didn't enter this time. That's for October. This was the reconnaissance: learn the road, meet the people, understand what the real journey will ask. What we found was that the getting there is its own country.
I've literally spent months in the weeds of this thing. Literature, permits, institutional history, maps, correspondence in two languages — the kind of detail work that makes you forget why you started. So, here's my account, and I'm sticking to it, before the trees close in again.
Two months ago I wrote about a photograph of a maned wolf. A male, collared, sitting in the grass at Los Fierros, identified only as M8. I said that finding him was reason enough to go.
A 4-day expedition through Bolivia's southern altiplano and the Salar de Uyuni, designed for participants of the 10th Chronic Hypoxia Symposium. A portion of each participant's fee supports research at the HAPPI-IPPA clinic.
The part of Noel Kempff that the river circuits never reach: the Huanchaca tableland, the Los Fierros savanna, and terrain that has had no visitors in a decade.
Twelve days on the blackwater rivers of northern Noel Kempff — macaws, river mammals, and some of the most biodiverse forest in the Amazon basin.